Why a Real Roux Is Worth the Time

There are two ways to make a roux: the right way and the fast way. The right way is just flour and oil cooked in a heavy pan over medium-low heat, stirred constantly, until the color goes from blonde to peanut butter to chocolate. The fast way is a microwave shortcut that exists, works in a pinch, and never tastes the same.

Plan for at least 30 minutes if you are going for chocolate. Use a heavy bottomed pan because the corners and edges scorch in a thin pan. Use a wooden spoon because metal whisks throw the flour into the air. Stand over it. Stir constantly. Read a magazine if you must, but never walk away.

Once the roux is the right color, add the holy trinity directly into it. The cold vegetables stop the cooking instantly. From there you build a gumbo, an etouffee, a sauce piquante. Whatever you build will be miles deeper in flavor than anything you can do with a quick roux. It is the patience that makes the dish.